The Fastnet Lighthouse, Co. CorkFrom a boat, Fastnet Rock is enormous. You crane your neck at fifty four metres of granite tower rising out of the Atlantic swell and it feels every bit the maritime monument. But from eight hundred feet up, the whole outcrop shrinks to something you could hold in your hand. That shift in scale is what grabbed me. The water was rough the day I flew over, breaking white on every side. Even from altitude you could see the power in each wave as it spent