Down the East Steps, Skellig Michael, KerryThere are three staircases on Skellig Michael. Most people only ever see the South Steps, the current route from the boat landing to the monastery. But the East Steps are the ones that stay with you. They're the steepest of the three, dropping away from the monastery at a gradient that makes your knees think twice. And here's the thing: they end in midair. The original base was blasted away in the 1800s during lighthouse construction, so this ancient