Small Skellig, KerryThirty thousand pairs of gannets live on this rock. You'd never know it from this photograph. The evening stripped everything back to bare geology, two jagged peaks rising from water so flat it looked wrong. The Atlantic off Kerry doesn't do calm. Not like this. I've photographed the Small Skellig more times than I can count, from boats, from Valentia, from the cliffs above Portmagee. Familiar ground. But the sea that evening had gone completely