Colleen Bawn Rock, Killarney National Park, Co. KerryColleen Bawn Rock sits out in Muckross Lake like a small defiant island, that single wind shaped tree clinging to bare stone. I've passed it dozens of times over the years, but the light on this particular afternoon was worth stopping for. A band of warm gold had broken through the cloud and was moving across the mountainside behind, picking out the oak woodland in patches while the rest of the hillside stayed in shadow. The lake was quiet, just